Antique silver mesh purses and handbags are small works of silversmithing that became popular in Europe between the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Made from tiny, flexible metal links and finished with decorative clasps, frames and chains, they were primarily used as evening bags. Today, they are valued as unique vintage accessories for their craftsmanship, age and history. At Urbieta Antique, we select original pieces, carefully restore them in our Madrid workshop and certify them before adding them to our collection.
Although we call them antique handbags, some are genuine works of art.
What Are Antique Reticules?
Reticules are small purses whose origins date back several centuries. They were originally used to carry coins and small personal belongings and could be made from luxurious fabrics, embroidery, leather and other materials.
As fashion evolved, these pieces changed in both function and design.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, metal mesh purses and handbags became particularly popular, especially those made from silver.
Their structure consisted of numerous small metal elements linked together to create a flexible surface that adapted to the contents of the purse and produced a distinctive sense of movement.
They were completed with carefully crafted frames and clasps, chains and decorative details that transformed an everyday object into a small piece of jewellery.
Silver Mesh Purses and Early 20th-Century Celebrations
To understand the appeal of these pieces, it helps to imagine the grand European ballrooms of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Women’s fashion was undergoing significant changes, and accessories were becoming increasingly important. Small evening bags allowed women to carry a few personal belongings without compromising the elegance expected at formal occasions.
Silver reticules therefore became especially desirable accessories.
The metal mesh reflected the light and created movement, while the clasps and frames provided craftspeople with the opportunity to develop elaborate decorative designs.
At Urbieta Antique, we like to imagine that every piece we recover was once part of those occasions. Although we may never know every story held by a century-old purse, the subtle signs left by the passage of time remind us that we are not looking at a reproduction.
We are looking at an object that truly belonged to another era.
How Were Antique Silver Mesh Purses Made?
One of the most surprising aspects of an antique reticule is the complexity of its construction.
The mesh had to achieve something seemingly contradictory: it was made from metal, yet it needed to remain flexible enough to behave like fabric.
To achieve this, numerous small links or metal elements were connected to one another. The result was an articulated, durable and remarkably fluid surface.
Depending on the period and origin of the piece, the frames and clasps could feature ornamental work, relief decoration, floral or geometric motifs and a variety of finishes.
On some examples, the bottom of the purse was also finished with fringes or moving elements that further emphasised its movement.
This level of craftsmanship is one of the main qualities we assess at Urbieta Antique when selecting an antique reticule. We are not simply looking for a beautiful purse: we search for pieces that preserve the character and artisanal quality that made these accessories so special.
Are a Reticule and a Silver Mesh Purse the Same Thing?
The terms are often used interchangeably, although historically they can refer to different types of accessories.
The reticule originated as a small purse used to carry coins and personal belongings, while the term silver mesh purse encompasses pieces of different sizes and designs that became especially popular as evening accessories.
Today, when we refer to antique silver reticules, we generally also mean these small historical purses, particularly those made from metal mesh and fitted with a chain or handle.
Whatever term is used, the most important factors when assessing an antique piece are its construction, materials, age, condition and quality of craftsmanship.
What We Look for When Selecting an Antique Silver Purse
At Urbieta Antique, we approach these pieces in much the same way as we approach antique jewellery.
Every purse is selected individually.
We assess the quality and condition of the mesh, check that the clasp and chain function correctly, examine the structure of the piece and pay particular attention to the handcrafted details that make it unique.
An antique purse may have existed for more than a hundred years. Finding interesting examples that can be carefully recovered therefore requires a highly selective approach.
Once selected, the pieces are taken to our workshop in Madrid, where we carry out a restoration process designed to recover their beauty and functionality while always respecting their original character.
The pieces are then certified before being added to our collection.
This process forms part of the Urbieta Antique philosophy: to rescue exceptional objects from the past, care for them and give them a second life.
Restoring Without Erasing Their History
Restoring an antique piece does not mean making it look as though it has just been manufactured.
For us, that distinction is essential.
A reticule that has survived for decades may show subtle signs of its history. The purpose of respectful restoration should be to recover its beauty, stability and functionality without removing the details that form part of its identity.
In the case of mesh purses, it is particularly important to inspect the condition of the individual elements that make up the structure, as well as the clasp, chain and any decorative details.
At Urbieta Antique, we understand restoration as a form of conservation. We want these pieces to be used again, but we also want them to remain what they truly are: authentic antique purses, not modern reproductions of a historical design.
How to Identify an Antique Silver Mesh Purse
Determining the age and composition of a purse requires several different elements to be assessed together.
Hallmarks and other marks may provide information about the metal, manufacturer or place of origin. The construction of the mesh, design of the clasp, chain, decorative elements and manufacturing techniques are also important.
Wear can provide useful information too, provided it is consistent with the age and characteristics of the piece.
However, there is no single feature that can automatically authenticate an antique reticule. For this reason, it is advisable to purchase these pieces from specialists who can examine them as a whole and properly assess their condition.
At Urbieta Antique, we carry out this work before a piece is added to our collection.
From Evening Accessory to Statement Piece
One of the things we love most about recovering these purses is discovering just how contemporary they can look.
Today, a silver reticule does not need to be paired with a period dress or reserved for an early 20th-century ball.
In fact, the contrast works in precisely the opposite way.
It can be worn with a simple black dress, a tailored suit, a wedding guest outfit or even a much more informal contemporary look. The texture of the mesh and the aged shine of the silver add personality without the need for many additional accessories.
There is also something particularly appealing about carrying a piece that is unlikely to be owned by anyone else.
At a time when accessories are produced in large quantities, choosing an original vintage purse allows you to add an object with genuine character to your wardrobe.
Antique Purses Versus Modern Reproductions
The renewed interest in mesh purses has led to the reappearance of this type of design in contemporary collections.
However, a reproduction inspired by a historical reticule and an original antique piece are two entirely different concepts.
An antique purse preserves the materials, techniques and proportions of the period in which it was created. It may display subtle handcrafted irregularities and natural signs of age that form part of its character.
Above all, it possesses something that cannot be reproduced: its history.
At Urbieta Antique, these are precisely the original pieces we seek. We do not want every purse to look identical or as though it has just left a factory.
We want each one to preserve the qualities that make it truly unique.
Antique Silver Reticules and Purses Available at Urbieta Antique
Our selection of antique silver purses and reticules changes constantly because we work with unique pieces.
At Urbieta Antique, you may find different examples of this type of accessory, from small reticules to antique silver purses carefully restored in our workshop.
Each piece has its own characteristics, dimensions, finishes and decorative details. We therefore recommend viewing them for what they really are: individual objects rather than identical items from a mass-produced collection.
Once one of these pieces finds a new owner, we may never discover another exactly like it.
That is also part of the magic of buying vintage.
Buying an Antique Silver Reticule from Urbieta Antique
For us, acquiring one of these pieces means much more than simply buying a handbag.
It means recovering a small example of European craftsmanship from the late 19th or early 20th century and allowing it to be used again more than a hundred years after it was created.
At Urbieta Antique, we source, select and restore our antique silver mesh purses before adding them to our collection, following the same philosophy that guides our work with antique and vintage jewellery.
If you are looking for an antique reticule, we invite you to discover the pieces currently available. Our collection is constantly changing, and much of its appeal lies precisely in that sense of discovery.
Some accessories are purchased for a single season.
Others have spent more than a century proving that they never belonged to just one.




